August 29

We are so glad for these beautiful sunny days.  But in some ways it would be better if it was raining cats and dogs, easier to leave.  When it’s like this we can’t imagine ever leaving.  Continue packing trying to figure out if we can get it all in the cases.  Brenna was able to go to work today staying on fluids.  We pick Dean up at daycare at noon and take him home for the afternoon. Poor Zach has come down with whatever it is and he is in bed for the day.  We are able to help around the house and keep Dean occupied.  Brenna comes home from work not quite up to snuff.  But we are able to sit under the trees in the backyard catching up on her return after 12 weeks away.  Chuck and Pat decide to take advantage of the day and go for dinner.  Stop of at F Street grill for halibut and crab.  Decide to drive up Arctic Valley on the edge of town,  The ski resort area requires that we travel through the military base.  The road up is steep and twisting and full of potholes and washboard.  It’s also very dusty.  At the top we can see down the beautiful valley the sits behind the front facing Anchorage Chugach Mountains.  The light is golden in the setting sun. It is definitely a fall light.  Anchorage is in our sight but up here it is remote and wild.  We are above tree line and there is permafrost in the area.  People are walking up the side of the mountain, picking blueberries.  We don’t see bears but we know they are around.  This is a very small ski operation compared to the Girdwood Valley.  But it serves Anchorage well and is close by.  The Alaska Range and Denali are very visible.  The setting sun dips above the head of Susitna, the old volcano visible across the Inlet.  We continue to pack and go through two months of apartment living.  Brenna is working from home tomorrow so we will go over and take care of Dean.  We don’t fly out until 11:15PM so we have the day to visit.  Night!

August 28

What the?  More sunshine, clear blue skies.  Warm and all mountain tops are visible.  Denali, Forraker and Hunter are all clearly visible in the north, can’t believe how close they appear.  The Alaska Range is open showing their high elevation with heavy snow cover in the west along with Mt. Redoubt volcano along the inlet.  Brenna has a tummy bug and plans today are cancelled.  It’s Zack’s birthday so we are sorry dinner plans must be postponed.   So we decide to take a last hurrah trip on our fave road. We have wanted to attend the UMC in Girdwood about 40 miles from Anchorage.  We follow the Turnagain Arm once again.  One of the top ten most beautiful drives in the country.  The tide is out.  We can see Beluga whales waiting to follow the salmon into the Arm with the tide. They are medium sized all white whales, looking like ghosts riding the waves.  This particular pod is unique in Alaska, the furthest south and separate from the larger pods in the Bering Sea and Arctic Ocean. The Arm and the surrounding mountains are always changing and beautiful no matter what the weather.  There is a very slight change for fall in the trees and undergrowth.  Very different from the 120 mile north trip we took yesterday where fall foliage is in full swing.  We drive up Girdwood Valley to the UMC church.  We were hoping to see Pastor Ward who married Brenna and Zach two years ago.  But she has moved to Washington and the new pastor is David Hall.  He is a graduate of the seminary in Dayton, Ohio.  He and his wife are from Nashville area.  He is ex-military who works part time as pastor awaiting ordination.  He also works part time for the VA . He and his wife have three young girls and they are very friendly.  He provides an excellent sermon and we are able to take communion.  The church is small with open concept.  Open beam and glass construction.  After church we go to Jack Sprat for brunch.  It has become our fave Girdwood restaurant.  We snag a table on the side deck with views of the mountains across the valley.  We sit in sun feasting on eggs benedict with smoked salmon and fried potatoes and a side of reindeer sausage.  Fresh brewed coffee and a carafe of mimosa’s top off a wonderful meal. We walk up to the artist’s coop and enjoy the wares at the old lodge.  Profuse flowers in large ground and hanging pots decorate the area. Then we stop at the Kobuk Jade Factory.  This has long been a favorite stop for us for over 30 years. They bring in Nephrite Jade from the Kobuk valley in the north.  An older couple ran it for years.  Now their daughter has taken over after their death.  It is closing for good next month and luckily we just happened in when it was open.  We have a nice chat and share memories of their years on the site.  The building will be sold along with all the remaining stock and huge jade saws that we enjoyed watching over the years.  Their displays of Alaska artifacts and native art are of museum quality.  A final purchase and we say good bye and good luck.  On our trip back north along the Arm the tide is coming in fast.  We can see the Beluga whales bobbing along, swimming the tide feasting on salmon.  We also see small black whales that we can’t identify.  We overheard a tourist telling a local they saw large black whales along the Inlet shoreline on their way down.  They already lost a humpback that ventured into the Arm.  It’s too shallow for them, so hope it doesn’t happen again.  Although now that we have seen the small black whales, we think they may have seen them instead.  We are able to see three Dall sheep high on the mountainside.  Brenna is feeling a little better.  We stop over with popsicles and ginger ale.  We take Zach his birthday presents and his parents arrive at the same time.  Dean is actively fighting sleep; he is quite the socialite and loves grandparent adoration.  Cute as can be.  We sit in the sun in the backyard and watch Zach open his gifts.  Time to go and let Brenna go back to bed.  She is due to start back to work tomorrow and it is unsure if she can go.  Back at the apartment we begin our packing.  After two months and purchases along the way it is a job to get it all in the bags.  Also we had left clothes from our February visit that have to be packed.  The day remains clear and warm with a beautiful setting sun.  We are now seeing darkness around 11PM, so daylight is fading as winter approaches.  Leaving Tuesday night for home our time is almost over.  Dean has grown from newborn who was unpredictable and unengaged to an active, responsive, bouncing baby boy.  His big blue eyes are endearing and he has captured our hearts.  Night.

August 27

Awoke to sunshine!!!!!  After 3 weeks of every kind of wet we are getting a reprieve.  Rain, snow, sleet etc. generally do not stop the average Alaskan, they go regardless.  But the incessant rains and low cloud cover have taken a toll on even the most stoic.  We had a great day yesterday and looks like another one today.  Brenna is taking a rest so we are taking our chance to have an adventure.  We set off down the same road as yesterday only this time we take the Old Glen Highway through Palmer and head east.  Denali, the mountain, is clearly seen in the distance, can’t believe it is 165 miles away but clear as a bell. As we travel we see how the Matanuska River is threatening the road.  Glacier river braids change over time with conditions.  They have to build a diversion using rock walls.  We take Fishhook Road toward Hatcher Pass and Independence Mine.  It is an incredible drive following the Little Su River; water color of opal due to glacial source.  We take the dirt road a short way to Summit Lake at 3400 feet. The view is very beautiful with the Alaska Range in the distance.  We are above tree line with fall colors starting on the low growth bushes and flowers.  Hikers are picking blueberries, we watch for bears but can’t see any.  This is their favorite spot too.  We stop at the historic Independence Gold Mine.  Every year they make more and more improvements to conserving the area with more renovated buildings and walk ways.  Everywhere a picture.  We stop down the road at the Hatcher Pass Lodge.  There is a bridal party getting their pictures taken in the fall foliage.  We get a chance to wish the bride and groom best wishes.  Margie and Brian were able to join us up here two years ago.  So we lifted a Free Ride thinking of them. The Lodge is very shabby chic and quaint with little cabins scattered around.  Our view is of the Mat-Su Valley where the fair is going on.  We can also see to the top of Knik Glacier.  Our drive down is equally picturesque.   At the lower levels the birch trees are turning golden with red fireweed plants.  We decide to take advantage of the day so we return to the Glen Highway driving east.  This roadway has been upgraded.  Mostly the very steep areas with no guard rails have been widened.  We follow the Matanuska River up its glacial valley.  It is running swift and very muddy from all the rain.  The silt is very heavy, no fish can live in it.  We can see the Matanuska Glacier below us.  It is a sight that continues to thrill; the long river of ice and moraines showing so clearly.  It is coming out of the Chugach Mountains that have major ice fields, the other side of the road are the Talkeetna Mountains.  They are much lower in elevation but very dramatic in their coloring from erosion showing all sorts of ores and elements in the rock.  Seems we can’t quite escape rain and we have brief periods of it but it always clears quickly. We see a sign for viewing the glacier from the  valley floor which we have never done.  So we take the road that drops to the valley floor.  It is steep, dirt/mud with potholes.  There are signs all along the way saying the road is dangerous.  We have to cross the river over a plank bridge.  A bit unnerving.  We end at a Glacier Lodge.  Mostly it’s a gift shop and privately operated entrance to the face of the glacier.  You must pay for the privilege and sign a waiver saying you don’t hold them accountable for injury.  We decide to do it another time but are glad to take the chance to check it out.  Back on the road we drive another 10 miles to Sheep Mountain Lodge.  It’s a very lovely gathering of central log lodge and log cabins.  This is one of the checkpoints of the Fireweed biking race where Brenna and Seth passed through a few years ago. The restaurant was recommended by Brenna.  The menu is limited.  Chuck gets a hamburger and Pat gets a bowl of chili with a giant yeast roll.  The food is just okay.  Kind of disappointed.  This is as far as we go.  In another 70 miles we would be in Glenallen.  The same town we passed through with Minde.  It’s been another long day but a great day of adventure, beautiful scenery and a few surprises. Make our way back to Anchorage navigating the fair traffic.  Time for quiet and rest.  Night!

August 26

Awake to dense fog, that looks more like a misty rain. Weather reporters all say today is supposed to be sunny with high of 72, but we keep shaking our heads wondering what planet they are on. We head over to Brenna’s mid-morning to pick up Brenna and baby Dean for today is Alaska State Fair Kid’s day out in Palmer.  We check the weather again and they keep saying we will see sun.  We start our 1 hour journey north out to Palmer off the Parks Highway.  Palmer was an agricultural experiment during the Territory days.  Giving land away to Wisconsin and Minnesotans particularly for farm start ups.  The people from these areas had experience in northern farming.  Today the area remains agricultural and conserved with the small town of Palmer. There is some produce and meat products coming from here but it is not enough to sustain the state.  It is a flat valley at the foot of the Chugach and Talkeetna mountains.  A real beauty spot with the back drop of Pioneer Peak and Knik Glacier.  The fair grounds are flat and green and often windy.  Along the way the skies start to clear and we see more blue sky and sun.  We pass a hayfield with large gatherings of Sandhill Cranes readying for migration.  They are around 4 feet tall, tawny colored, on stilt legs.  As we walk around the fair the sky clears, the sun is full and the temperature rises with a slight breeze.  It is a perfect fair day.  Dean is asleep in stroller and we have a pair of give-away moose antlers attached to it.  Amy and Terry are importers of wood from around the world.  Amy is part of the wood turner’s guild.  So wherever the crafters display their art she knows them well.  Every year the far displays a central large flora area.  This year it is an adorable bee hive (8 feet tall) surrounded by huge bees and gorgeous yellow daisies and others yellows.  The theme this year is Bee Happy.  We think of Grandma Simons who used to sing Be Happy and wore her t-shirt with the logo.  We visit various vendors and eat fair food, particularly homemade ice cream with flavors of local blueberries, fireweed flower, birch and walnut and local cranberry cheesecake.  We watch the lumber jack show with demonstrations of their skills and humorous antics.  Dean sleeps through most of the fair but awakes for the petting zoo animals.  We laugh at the signs placed around the roosters.  Don’t put your fingers in the cage, they bite.  So a number of children do it anyway.  And we’re not supposed to make faces at them.  Very discerning birds, easily insulted.  The giant veggies the fair is known for have not arrived yet.  There is no mistaking we are at a very different kind of fair.  The mountains, the exhibits, the florals, the products make it clear.  The fair organizers do a great job making it a happy time for all ages.  We end our visit at the native village.  This area has a working fish wheel and a vendor has brought in a matching pair of 30 foot long Bowhead whale jaw bones.  The village is comprised of small brightly colored houses that represent various native groups in Alaska with their crafts and art.  Chuck buys a pair of seal skin slippers lined in otter fur with a beaded medallion on each.  He meets the artist who crafted them.  There is a large stage set up with benches.  We listen to an Eskimo rapper sing his poetry set to music about his culture.  Following, we watch Yupik drummers and dancers complete with brightly colored kuspuks, fur boots, fur and horn head bands and the beautiful grass woven dance fans trimmed in wolf hair.  Dean likes the drumming it puts him to sleep.  The food vendor for this area is serving king crab legs, Indian fry bread, fresh salmon and Eskimo berry ice cream. They have a large slab of open dried salmon fillet, method used by native fish camps on display.  We believe it is for display because it would not pass the food test for fair visitors.  But it looks very tasty.  A bright sky and open mountains are the drive home, what a change from this morning.  There is a sun dog in the sky.  A small rainbow refection of the sun through nearby cloud.  Dropping everyone off, Pat and Chuck stop at old fave restaurant.  Pizza Olympia has not changed from our early days.  It is excellent Greek food and the staff/owners are very Greek.  The old grandpa used to sit in his own booth at dinner time drinking wine while other dined.  His booth now has a shrine with his picture.  We order the flaming cheese and the special, Gyro pizza with Tzatziki sauce.  Enough to take home along with homemade baklava.  Lovely day, now time for rest.  We leave Tuesday night, can’t believe the time is almost past. Night!

August 25

We wake to rain yet again. Thinking of the old rhyme, rain, rain go away come again some other day. State Fair opens today, but decided to wait till tomorrow to go, as it is supposed to be sunny and 72 degrees.  Dean is wide awake and raring to go.  We babysit while Brenna runs errands.  Dean has us wound around his little finger, he whimpers and he gets picked up.  Hard to resist.  We try to avoid eye contact but he giggles at us and we are putty in his hands. As we reach down to rescue him from his bed he wiggles all over with joy.  Sorry Mom and Dad he is irresistible when he smiles at us!  We take off for a night on the town.  First we stop at Simon and Seafort’s Happy Hour. We land a table in the bar by the windows overlooking the inlet.  The clouds lay low and gray you’d never know there were incredible mountain vistas hiding.  We don’t mind, the inlet is still a fun place to watch.  We try various Happy Hour drinks and hors d’oeuvres.  Everything is very delicious.  We stop in midtown to check out the Eastern European grocery store that includes Russian, Ukrainian, Croatian specialties.  We drive back downtown and walk to the Polar Gift Store to pick up a couple more souvenirs.  We end the night at the top of the Captain Cook Hotel at the Crow’s Nest bar.  Very fancy with beautiful views looking east over the city toward the Chugach Mountains.  The weather is brightening with patches of blue skies.  We have a couple drinks and nibbles while enjoying the views. Back to the apartment getting ready for the Alaska State Fair tomorrow.  Dean’s first state fair!  Night.

August 24

More rain in the morning.  Warmed up today to low 70’s.  Rain is a constant threat.  Very humid, dampness all around.  Brenna took Dean to another half day of care in preparation for next week.  Zach went with her this morning to see how it is done.  We meet up with she and Dean at 49^th State Brewery Pub for lunch.  A brand new place opened in the former Snow Goose Brewery.  Their outside decks have the best Denali , Alaska range and Mt. Susitna views from Anchorage.  (when it’s clear) The owner bought a lot of high quality lumber for the décor.  There are two gorgeous rough plank tables with rough edge.  The menu is eclectic and above the usual pub fare.  We try Alaska yak quesadillas, deep fried avocado and giant Bavarian pretzel in beer cheese sauce.  Chuck gets a giant hamburger, Pat gets pork belly tacos and Brenna gets a huge slab of King salmon blackened on a bun.   Needless to say we didn’t finish it all.  We also tried a few of their beers from the brewery downstairs.  This site also hosts the fur rondy melodrama done in February, which we have enjoyed many times.  Dean sleeps through the meal and the noise, such a good little lunch companion.  We set off down the coastal trail near the restaurant.  We have views of the port, the inlet and the planes taking off at the airport.  We pass through Bootlegger’s Cove.  An early settlement known for its wild ways.   We stay long enough to have play time and a nap for Dean.  We leave in less than a week. He has changed so much and he knows us.  It will be hard to go.  Night!

August 23

Some intervals of sun but rain always present.  Day at Brenna’s as she runs errands and prepares freezer food getting ready to return to work.  Lots of time with Dean.  Nice to have this opportunity to spend time with him.  He is at least 13 pound now and growing in length. His personality is showing;  does not suffer in silence but his needs are simple  He is giving more voice with gurgles and loud yells (in a good way.)  Sometimes he surprises himself when he makes noises. Brenna fixes fresh halibut on the grill and crab cakes leftover from the King crab supper.  Home for an early night.  Night!

August 22

Awoke to heavy rain, mountains mostly socked in.  Rain is becoming a common theme these days as the weather is transitioning.  Much of being in Alaska is about being outside and outside they go!  But even the heartiest Alaskans tire of the rain and all its gear. Brenna dropped off Dean this morning for trial run for Daycare. He is next to youngest baby in the group and his minder only handles two babies.  He is a little fussy but after a little time in the swing he will be taking his nap.  Lots of noise in the room so Dean will learn to sleep through anything.  So far, he has done well with ambient noise.  Mama is a little weepy leaving him behind but it will even out over time. Luckily he only has to be at daycare 3 days a week and home the other two.  We pick him up at noon after only 4 hours and take him home.  Lots of play time and tire him out.  Light supper at home and early night.  Night!

August 21

Raining and cool.  We take a relaxed morning with showers and washing clothes.  Brenna and Zach are coming back from the cabin but we will give them the rest of their Sunday at home.  The week ahead is going to be very busy as we wind down our stay.  Lots to do when we get home.  We have another month of summer and weeks of pre-fall weather with lawn and garden and campaign and volunteer activities and golf!  Dean is going to day care tomorrow for the first time and Brenna will stay with him part of the time so she can see how it goes.  It’s very hard to find infant care and they will only take Dean 3 days a week.  Which is a good thing since Brenna can work remote one day and take off a day. Lots of adjustments ahead.  Talked with Seth yesterday and all is well at home.  It seems we are through the short high heat spell so the summer has mostly been cool and wet.  Our garden is producing lots of tomatoes.  Night!

August 20

Awoke to quiet morning and coffee on the stove.  The dog is agitated as she walks over the bridge.  It is likely a grizzly came through during the night, lots of fish available for them!  Chuck fixes a big fry-up brunch.  Mimosas, cinnamon chip French toast with maple syrup, scrambled eggs, fresh fruit/yogurt, reindeer sausage and peppered bacon and home fry potatoes.  We spend the rest of the morning and afternoon visiting and watching the active salmon in the stream.  Chuck and John drive the four wheeler up the path to bring down a large tree that has fallen over the path.  They cut and split the tree, getting ready for winter cabin heating.  After a lovely relaxed time of conversation Pat and Chuck reluctantly take their leave to return to Anchorage.  Brenna and Zach are at their cabin south of here for the night but we decide to go home instead.  Maybe we will go up tomorrow.  We will have to boat in if we do.  Dinner at Bear Tooth restaurant in Anchorage: fish and chips, sweet potato quesadillas and guacamole/chips, carme burrito and margaritas.  Starting the last week of our Alaska stay.  Looking forward to a good night’s sleep back at the apartment!  Weather is still overcast with threat of rain with mid 60’s.  Night!

August 19

Dry morning, ready for a 120 mile ride to Talkeetna north of Anchorage, same road as on the way to Denali.  We had stopped off at Talkeetna with Minde on our final leg of the RV trip.  We meet Terry and John Powell in Talkeetna for lunch at Mile High Pizza.  A small café on the main street and very good gourmet pizza.  Terry and Pat take the car and look at the wedding reception venue for their son’s wedding two years ago and then we drove by the small Catholic Church where they were married.  We four parked at the top of the hill and walked into the Powell Homestead.  John’s grandfather and grandmother homesteaded several hundred acres, signed by decree of President Calvin Coolidge in 1949 when Ak was a territory.  Since then the family has added onto the acreage.  The trail leads us through the woods to a new foot bridge over Birch Creek.  The homestead cabins have been combined with a breezeway in between.  The train tracks are only about 100 feet from the RR tracks.  There has been a history of winter whistle stops where an individual cabin owner can flag down a train.  More trains come through since the cruise trips include a stop in Talkeetna up the road.  The cruise trains slow down for the tourists to see a ‘real’ homestead.  We walk out onto the lot and wave to them as they pass by. We have come to the homestead over the past 30 years, prior to Seth’s birth.  It sits on a picturesque grass lawn on the banks of Birch Creek.  There are many Chum salmon spawning in the creek, breaking the surface over the gravel area.  They are severely humped with snarly teeth and white wilting flesh as they are the throes of death after their long journey to spawn. The cabin has had many improvements with a flush toilet and hot and cold running water in summer. The wood stove has been replaced with a propane full range/oven and a propane refrigerator.  A wood burning fireplace is located in the center of the room.  We relax with good red wine, freshly caught grilled red salmon and potato/ green bean salad.  Chuck and Pat bring small Dutch bakery tarts for dessert, made with marzipan and fruit.  To bed with a full moon shining down.  Quiet sleep, very relaxing.  Night!

August 18

Sun most of the day.  Invited to our friends the Powell’s Talkeetna area cabin for the weekend.  We shop for groceries this weekend.  Babysit Dean while Mama runs more errands and Grandpa does house chores.  Grandma and Dean take a walk but don’t get lost this time.  Grandma assists with Dean’s bath for the first time.  He seems to like it and splashes around.  Early night in order to get ready for our trip north tomorrow.  Night.

August 17

Start off with sun and rain developing through the day.  Our amazing day was spent with Dean as Mama ran errands.  Took a lengthy walk around the neighborhood and go a little lost.  At least Dean stayed asleep during our ordeal.  We went out to dinner at Kinkaid Grille where we had Ak fresh oysters, King crab cakes, salads, rack of Lamb, halibut special and chocolate pot de crème.  Night.

August 16

Awoke to a message from Minde that she arrived safely home. It was a red eye flight with no real glitches.  Minde’s Buffalo family picked her up at the airport and went for breakfast to celebrate her return.  We are grateful that her second ever flight went so well.  Off to Brenna’s to babysit Dean while she goes for an appointment and errands.  He seems to be eating every hour and only taking catnaps.  Chuck does chores around the house and Pat takes Dean for a walk in the neighborhood.  There is a nice path through heavy tree growth and ponds with waterlilies and ducks.  Blue skies with white clouds and warmer temps.  Such a welcome change.  Dean falls asleep before we leave the driveway.  Pat doesn’t stay on the path too long, the habitat is perfect for moose and we saw one outside the house this winter; better to be careful with precious cargo.  Dinner at the apartment feasting on the last of Brenna’s garden leaf lettuce.  Early night to prepare for the winding down of our stay.  Night.

August 15

Awoke to part sun and warm temps.  Minde is leaving today, she is finishing up her packing and we’re enjoying a slow morning. Stop off at Hardware Specialty, the Petrusa family business, to say a final good by and let Minde see the business. We also take a plate of brownies for the crew.  On to Brenna and Dean.  Minde and Brenna take off for a girls day out and grandparents babysit.  More overcast skies but no rain today, it is a relief for the change.  Brenna takes Minde on a tour of the native hospital and their gift shop where all the items are Alaska native crafted.  The proceeds benefit patient care.  She then takes Minde to her laboratory on the UAA campus where she checks in on current lab results.  The girls went to Spenard Roadhouse for lunch.  Back to the apartment to pick up Minde’s luggage and off to the airport.  The plane is running on time and we stay with her until she gets checked in and then watch until she clears security.  According to the computer her flight is on course.  We can’t believe how fast the time has gone.  Minde has been a delightful travel companion.  Her youthful energy is infectious and we have worked hard to keep up with her.  Now we are tired!  We wish her a bon voyage home. Minde has a lot on her plate when she arrives home; full time college schedule, playing volley ball on the college team and a job.  We wish her well!  We are beginning to readjust to our remaining two weeks here in AK.  Lots of time with Dean and parents.  Night!

August 14

Awoke to low gray skies, humidity, no rain.  Slow going morning. A last big breakfast of blueberry pancakes/maple syrup, pork and reindeer sausage.  Stop at Ulu Factory for last purchases and visit the Anchorage Museum.  There is a lot of construction at the museum to expand their space.  The usual Alaskana history displays are down but the beautiful native culture display is up.  An evolving display of modern art is very evocative, some very confusing. They have added on the Imaginarium a children’s science discovery center.  We have a good time trying out all  the different experiments and activities.  There is also a Learning Center  under the auspices of the Smithsonian, one of only four in the US. We stop off at Muse, the museum café for tea.  Dinner at Brenna and Zach’s tonight.  Amy and Terry, Zach’s parents are coming over too.  We set the table outside under cloudy skies.  We have a fire burning in the outdoor fire pit.  There is a smorgasbord of food.  Marinated and grilled steak and chicken, king crab, salad, rosemary potatoes, sautéed zucchini and zucchini marinara, Fire Island wheat bread, finishing with Amy’s famous apple pie and ice cream.  We don’t have room for s’mores.  Amy and Terry have given Minde a beautiful hand carved wood pen for her graduation.  Dean has calm funny moments and entertains us all just by looking cute.  We picked up his one month photos and they are darling. He has changed just in this second month. Getting late.  Minde’s last night in Alaska.  Glad to have a nice family send off dinner before she goes.  Night.

August 13

Woke to low, gray clouds but no rain, just threatening. But there is a little light in the sky.  It will get near 70 today and it is quite humid.  After our marathon day yesterday we take it easy and slow this morning.  Around 12:30 we drive downtown to finish last minute shopping and then to the Alaska Berry Candy Factory to check out their wares.  We are greeted by a 30 foot high chocolate ‘falls’.  A series of copper pots pour melted chocolate to a large chocolate fountain below.  There are crates of giant blocks of chocolate surrounding the falls.  It is very tempting to jump in.  On to the Alaska Zoo on O’Malley Road up the side of the mountain.  Brenna meets us there with Dean in his stroller, ready for another adventure.  The zoo has not changed much since we lived here.  There are more sophisticated water features for the polar bears and seals and entertainment spaces.  But the zoo layout is about the same.  It’s a lovely walk in the woods on dirt paths with little wooden bridges crossing the stream.  The stream is the south fork of Campbell Creek.  They have rehabbed the stream into a natural flow from the days of Annabelle the elephants’ special swimming pond. The animals are mostly rescue and or breeding program.  Annabelle was a one off, typical Alaskan happenstance.  The outstanding show today is the three grizzly bears.  All are active and showing off.  One is sitting in a large pool of water playing with a ball and doing yoga routines.  He looks so cute and cuddly until you see his 4 inch curved claws and then you remember his real potential.  Every once in a while he stops and tries to make eye contact, very scary.  Dean sleeps through the whole zoo, never a fuss.  First zoo visit for Dean.  Minde enjoyed seeing the animals especially the black bears and grizzlies.  She was disappointed we had to use binoculars in Denali to see the female with cubs.  But once she got this close she is glad to not have a close encounter. Brenna takes Dean home.  Pat and Chuck take Minde to one of their favorite viewing spots, the Lakefront Hotel.  The patio overlooks a small green lawn and Lake Spenard, float planes take off and land here frequently.  Often they begin descent right over our heads.  It’s a thrill to watch these water planes do their thing.  Back at the apartment we eat a dinner of leftovers and play a game of rummy.  Minde wipes the floor with us and is pretty pleased with herself.  She reminds us that she arrived 2 weeks ago today, can’t believe it.  One more night in Anchorage for her.  We have so enjoyed having her with us to share adventures.  Night.

August 12

Woke up early for day trip.   Low gray clouds, drizzle, 60’s and fog patches.  Pick up Dean and Brenna and head south to the Kenai Peninsula for a day adventure in the Seward area, located on Resurrection Bay.  The trip is two hours of traveling through Turnagain Arm, mountain passes, rivers, and lakes, Dean loves sleeping in the car!  The weather is still wet and more fog down here.  We drive into town for lunch.  A Celebrity Cruise Line Millennium ship is in port.  We go to Ray’s on the harbor for lunch.  Pat has crab, salmon bisque and Coho salmon taco’s, Brenna has bisque and halibut and chips, Chuck has a big  bowl of seafood chowder, Minde has beef brisket sandwich.  Drive out to the Seavey Dog Mushing compound.  Bren and Minde have tickets for the hour long show.  Mitch Seavey won the Iditarod in 2013 and races most years and is part of the Seavey Family of racers.  He keeps a large kennel of dogs and puppies.  The girls go on a two mile dog ‘sled’ ride with a team of 16 dogs.  They are a part of a small group on a wheeled dog cart.  The trip takes them deep into the woods and down a stream bed.  The forest here is like rainforest with stands of tall trees and Spanish moss. Then they get to pet the dogs and the puppies.  They meet us back in the car and Dean continues his nap.  We drive down the road to Exit Glacier.  Bren is carrying Dean in a front pack with a fleece rain cover.  We set off on the same trail that President Obama walked on his recent visit.  This big glacier drops down out of the Harding Ice Field and continues to be impressive.  But it has receded dramatically over the last 100 years. We hike uphill through the forest and up onto the huge scraped glacial rock base for an always impressive view of the glacier.  We are thrilled to walk in the POTUS steps and Dean has just climbed to his first glacier!  And he was sleeping for most of it except for the occasional complaint.  Continue back into Seward for a visit to a couple shops on the tiny Main St.  Seward has changed a lot since we lived here.  The cruise lines have brought in business and it has changed the atmosphere somewhat.  We stop at the Sea Life Center for up close views of some of the indigenous sea birds, including the tufted and horned puffins.  One of the Horned puffins keeps splashing Minde and then it flew to a nearby rock and posed for us.  Great views of seals and sea lions and all kinds of fish and deep water sea life and a touching pool.  Dean is mesmerized by the large schools of fish, he can’t take his eyes off of them.  Leave Seward for a rainy drive back.  It’s getting late so we stop off at Summit Lake Lodge for dinner.  Mostly fish and beef, attempting to be upscale but generally the food is not remarkable.  They failed to place our order so we had to wait extra time and it was getting late.  They have a voc-ed food industry school in Seward.  It appears some of the staff may be from that school.  The lodge is very upscale and lovely log construction with a large sunroom.  Driving back in the last of the late light up Turnagain Arm into Anchorage.  It has rained the whole time.  Stop! But it didn’t stop us from having a great time.  Drop off sleeping Dean and Mama, back to apartment, fall into bed!!!!  Night.

August 11

Rained all night.  Awoke to drizzle.  In the 60’s but more damp than cold, low wind.  They rerouted the Parks Highway Bridge at Eagle River so we can hear traffic above us in the distance, seemed to disappear during night.  There is a small tent pitched in the slot next to us and a car has pulled in with the owner sleeping in it.  We never heard them arrive, the tent was gone before we knew it and never a sound.  We finish up our packing to ready the RV for return.  Last camp breakfast of bacon, sausage, cheesy scrambled eggs and homemade sourdough toast.  Take a quick drive up Eagle River Valley where a thick rope of fog follows the river.  As we climb up into the valley the fog lifts and we can see mountain tops under low gray skies.  The end of the road is the Eagle River State Park, a cute log cabin with decks and picnic tables and displays  overlooking the heavy willow and alder bushes and mountain tops in the distance.  We think we might try the shorter trail but they have closed it because the bears are feeding on the spawning salmon.  So a couple of pics and on the road to Anchorage just 15 minutes away.  We arrive at Brenna’s to unload the RV gear and pick up the Ford Escape SUV.  Minde stays behind to start here wash.  Drop off the RV with no problems and pick up a few groceries for the apartment.  The apartment is available early so we unpack all that we have and return to pick up Minde and the rest.  Dean is awake for a while, pleasant with a chance of grumpy.  We leave for dinner at the Lucky Wishbone.  An Anchorage favorite for 60 years.  Advertise themselves as serving Air Fresh chicken.  Meaning it is processed in the lower 48 and flown in to them fresh to serve.  They are known for diner type foods and of course the fried chicken.  Minde gets the chicken sandwich, Chuck gets big fried dinner and Pat just gets her usual chicken livers. Minde finds out about their chocolate milkshakes.  We have looked for moose all day to no avail.  As we turned onto the street back to the apartment there he was, standing in a back yard garden about 10 feet from our car, cleaning out the neighbor’s garden.  We thought he was a big statue at first.  There is no way to get rid of him.  He will stay there until it is all gone.  A young male moose with a deformed antler but he looked healthy in spite of it.  Nothing wrong with his appetite.  Back at the apartment we are still situating back into apartment life.  It’s a cloudy, rainy night, good for chilling and relaxing.  Off to Seward tomorrow for more exploration.  Ah a bed that is not in a box and doesn’t move.  Night!

August 10

Awoke to rain, what’s new.  This storm continues to hang in the central part of the state.  At least it makes fire level low.  We take campground showers.  $4.00 for 4 minutes water.  Minde’s and Pat’s experience with these timed showers has shown we need 8 minutes minimum to have shower and wash hair!  We drive to downtown and Minde is able to visit the Talkeetna Station NPS.  Here is the area required for all climbers within Denali NP to register and sign forms of preparation, get extra training and instruction etc.  High climbing season is over (May-July), more than 60% of climbers made it to the Denali Summit this year, highest number ever.  The NPS must provide assistance and oversight for the climbs.  If there is altitude sickness, frost bite, fractures or other conditions demanding rescue the NPS has to provide it.  It is very dangerous work so climber prep is taken very seriously.  This station is very beautiful, almost cozy in its décor and size.  Climbers carry a flag of their country of origin to the summit, plant the flag, get a pic and then bring it back.  Many hang their flags in this building as part of the décor.  NPS has strict rules about maintaining the Mountain wilderness, what is taken in, must come out, including human waste.  They have special canister toilets the climbers must use.  Walk over to the Talkeetna Roadhouse.  Very historic old lodge, restaurant and bakery.  In season, you’ll find the climbers here and they leave notes on the walls.  We sit family style.  Large group traveling together on one side and a couple from NYC on the other.  One NYC person is from Sydney, Aus.  Strike up a conversation about her country from our recent visit.  Apparently we’ve seen more of Aus and NZ than she!  Pat has biscuit with reindeer gravy, pepper bacon and sides, Chuck has same, Minde has giant (12 diameter) chocolate chip pancake and eggs.  Chuck is the only one to finish his brunch!  Walk around town for a bit, a few more gift shops.  The Ak RR has dropped a large group of tourists walking into town to shop and eat so we just missed the crowd!  Time to leave Talkeetna and drive south toward Anchorage on the Parks Highway.  Passing big salmon rivers, Montana Creek, Trapper Creek etc.  This area is filled with dense bush and small ponds, perfect moose habitat.  We pass by Willow.  This is where the Iditarod Dog race restarts after the Anchorage ceremonial start which we have seen a couple times.  We pass by the Big Lake area where Alaskans have cabins on the many small lakes in the area.  This is where Petrusa’s cabin is as well.  We enter Wasilla.  When we lived here it was just a crossroads and a train depot (historic).  Now this area is the fastest growing population in the state, always new roads under construction.  We turn onto Knik-Goose Bay Road on our way to the Iditarod HQ.  It’s a pretty property with nice statue of Joe Reddington Sr, the ‘father’ of the modern Iditarod, many large floral arrangements around a pretty log cabin. Nice gift shop and memorabilia and a 20 minute film talking about the racing dogs.  We are able to pet a couple of the husky puppies and watch an actual Iditarod team give visitors a quick ride around the track.  Onward toward Anchorage, crossing the Matanuska and Knik Rivers; large braided rivers coming off glaciers of the same name.  We pull into the Eagle River Campground, there’s some sun but overcast, no rain thankfully.  We are a short distance from Anchorage now in the last state campground in the area which is preferable to the noisier, city campgrounds.  We have no hook-ups but we are self contained.  We are located near the rushing Eagle River that comes out of the glacier of the same name.  We are surrounded by fir and birch forest.  Black bears frequent this area and moose like it too.  Brenna meets us at the campsite with Dean for dinner.  It’s good to see them.  Dean has grown even more.  It’s his fussy time so a walk around the campground covered with mosquito netting puts him to sleep.  Grandpa pushes the pram with bear spray on his belt.  Our last night campfire.  Last night RV dinner: Spaghetti, Sautéed zucchini and bell peppers, garlic bread and blueberry cheesecake.  Brenna stays long enough to play a couple hands of rummy but Dean needs to settle down for the night.  We will see them tomorrow when we return the RV.  We will be back in our original apartment tomorrow night.  We’ve had a great adventure but it will be good to get back to a real bed and not bang elbows in narrow spaces or cook with no counter space!  Thankfully we’ve done it all before and know how to make it all work.  We hope to take a run up Eagle River Valley before returning the RV.  There is an excellent visitor’s center and nice hiking. Lots of bear, moose and spawning salmon in the area.  Last goodnight in RV!

August 9

Awoke to rain and low clouds.  Time to break camp and head out.  Stop off for NPS stamps at various Park locations for Minde’s book and last minute RV needs.  Drive briefly north through ‘Glitter Gulch’, a collection of tourist based businesses and restaurants and lodging.  One of the Princess Cruise lodges is here.  We drive to the little town of Healy and visit the 49^th State Brewing Company.  They have opened a branch in Anchorage recently with some of the best views in town.  The Healy brewery and pub is the original and outside it looks like Alaska country eclectic with a broken down bus and log fence.  There is a large white tent covering the entrance and it becomes much more shabby chic.  White German malt bags hang from the ceiling and once inside it is dark and spacious with large natural wood tables, bar and a large hood fireplace with a fire burning and chairs sitting around. We sit at the fireplace and order a couple apps.  The chicken ‘fingers’ are huge crunchy fried pieces of breast meat and strange but good potato fries that look like human ears.  And an order of baked flat bread piled with meat, cheese and veggies.  Pat and Chuck share a tasting flight of their beers.  Pat still preferring IPA.  Driving south we pass through Broadway Pass that is always a treat with its beauty.  Over several rivers and streams with salmon.  Stop off at Mary’s McKinley View Lodge, an historic homestead still operated by the family. They are making a movie about Mary Carey.  It’s an old Alaska style lodge with thick plank tables and log chairs.  A beautiful bar that looks like a tree is growing out of the floor.  The real draw is the floor to ceiling view of Denali when it is clear.  But we have rain and we had our chance to see the Mountain back in the Park.  Next we stop at the McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge.  A series of alpine type cabins on beautiful manicured lawns and flowers and sculptures.  On a clear day the Mountain is in plain view. The Lodge is lovely with fabric covered walls in tapestry print and floor to ceiling stone fireplace and log construction.  We cross over the Chulitna River, coming off the glacier and it is swollen with rain and run-off. We have rain off and on as we pass through tall trees, lakes and rivers, moose habitat.  We turn off onto Talkeetna Spur Road.  Along the way we stop at Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge.  We have known about the Lodge but never stopped.  As we think back over this blog we have made several ‘lodge’ stops, something we’ve never done.  It’s fun to see the décor and check out the gift shops.  Some old time Mom and Pop and some fancy big corporation.  This lodge is run by CIRI, one of the native corporations.  It has one of the best views of any of the lodges so far.  On a clear day not only would we see the Mountain but a vista of the range and we can see the mighty untamed glacial Susitna River flowing below.  The Lodge is a series of small alpine cabins, the lodge itself is lovely with a great deck, huge fireplace and log structure.  And a nice gift shop….  On up the road to Talkeetna which is the setting off point for all Denali and other Alaska Range climbers.  A funky little town of old gold mining origins.  The Susitna runs parallel with the town and is very high today.  The town has had big floods in the past and it’s high now.  The Mountain would be very clear from here.  We park the RV at a campground near downtown (about 20 tiny buildings) and walk to Main Street.  We stroll the tiny Main Street looking for Mayor Stubbs, the big yellow tom cat that runs the town!  He is now 19 years old and doesn’t make many public appearances so we have to do with his picture.  We have seen him before so we know he is real.  We check out the high river and can’t get near the river bank for high swift water.  We end up at Twister Creek/Denali Brewing for dinner.  Minde has half pound cheeseburger (too much to eat), Pat has Alaska cod and sweet potato wedges, Chuck has PATK, a giant braised short rib in pepper gravy with real mashed potatoes.  There is an ice cream shop next door that makes old fashioned ice cream in a wooden bucket churned in rock salt and ice using a John Deere motor.  Pat has mix of choc and vanilla and it tastes like ice cream from childhood.  A few more gift shops and photo ops, back to the RV.  We had been dodging raindrops and now it has set in, in earnest.  We finally have WiFi so nice to have quiet computer time.  It is raining hard all night.  A concern for the high river level.  We are camped near the Ak RR depot and get a train whistle as it passes through.  Night!

August 8

Awoke to mostly white clouds and blue skies, breezy and warm.   Catch the bus at our campground stop.   We wind our way into the park with caribou walking right past our bus, see a mother grizzly and two cubs on high ground, Ptarmigan, Dall Sheep rams, marmots.  The mountains in this area are almost like dessert with eroded sides bearing various colors in the rock.  There is little snow in these mountains and a few high glaciers.  The rivers are still running high, some braided glacial and some snow/rain run-off, there has been record rains in the area.  The bus driver was very knowledgeable and described all the flora, fauna and geological features.  They have found dinosaur tracks and some bones in the Igloo Creek area so there will be more archeological digs.  It’s a warm day for the animals.  We do not see wolves, they are here but their population is low.  There is affect by the hunting for them around the park for sport and fur and the wolves don’t know about boundaries so they get killed.  When one wolf gets killed it can kill the whole pack due to their inner support system.  There is legislation in the works to try to slow the killing of them by the NPS.  The road is not bad considering it’s gravel and dirt, better than the Denali Highway.  There is only one road in and out and it’s narrow. There are very hairy twists and turns without guardrails and hundreds of feet drops.  One our way in we are treated with views of both the north and south summits of Denali, the largest mountain in North America and considered one of the world’s tallest.  It is glacier covered and bright white. Most of the climbing season is over, hundreds go per year from around the world.  The mountain is so massive and ice covered that it makes its own weather.  Only 30% of visitors who come get to see it.  After the weather we’ve been having this is unexpected and very nice for Minde.  We end at Eilsen Visitors Center.  The air is cool and thin but the sun is intense and  hot.  One of the great viewing areas for the mountain, but it has disappeared already.  We eat our packed lunch on the stone patio overlooking the valley.  It’s a LEED building and very nicely done.  We visit the Center and then take a short hike down the valley.  Bears have been sighted but none for us now.  We take a different bus back.  We see more caribou and it’s still a sunny day.  We walk back from our bus stop and fix dinner.  More hamburgs and sausage, mac and cheese, broccoli.  S’mores for dessert.  We try making sweet potatoes over the fire.  They come out pretty well and save for another meal.  Minde and Pat go to the evening Ranger program and learn more about wilderness designation for America’s lands.  Minde wins rummy and we turn in earlier than last night. Heading south toward Anchorage tomorrow with a few more RV nights.  Leaving the Park behind and our adventures to more adventures.  Night!

August 7

Awoke to gray skies and drizzle.  Hard to get up this morning but we have our pancakes with real maple syrup and butter, bacon and sausage and we set out for a hike on the local trails.  There are openings of blue sky and sun ringed by low dark gray clouds.  Bear bells and hiking sticks intact and we go off jingling down the trail off of our campground.  This is the area where the sick bear was that had to be shot.  We are in a meadow of low growth bushes that have been thoroughly munched by moose and scat all around.  We view Savage River, it is clear and not glacier, and the beautiful mountains all around.  Don’t see any animals and it’s disappointing but glad not to run into them.  One of our fellow campers tell us one of them was chased all around the campground by a moose with a calf.  No harm but hairy time.  Blueberries, low bush and high bush cranberries are growing everywhere.  People are out picking and the bears are eating them too.  We haven’t had time to pick and that’s too bad but we have so many things in the time we’re here.  We head up to the shuttle bus stop outside our campground.  A free service and we don’t have to move the RV.  It shuttles us down to the bus       and RR depot where the Alaska RR brings visitors in. Most are with the Princess Cruise Line with their double decker cars and outdoor viewing platforms.  A train pulls in as we arrive.  We see three moose on a distant hill on the way down on the bus. We visit the Denali Book Store and find a few items.  They have almost no stock left for the NPS Centennial very disappointing.  Denali Park is 100 years old next year so another celebration at this park.  We stop off at the café and sit outside under the eave for a snack.  Then we head down to another bus that takes us to the Denali Kennel for their sled dog viewing and demonstration.  (We meet a couple from Wooster, Ohio, about 40 miles from Hudson and a couple from Melbourne, Aus.)  A mother moose and calf are 10 feet from the bus and we get lots of pics on the way up to the kennels.  We are allowed to view and pet the dogs that are willing.  Big dogs compared to the Greyhound physiques of the race dogs.  These are working dogs that work through the winter often in 40 below hauling  freight, patrolling the park and breaking trails in deep snow. An Alaskan Husky is not a pure  breed, but a cross breed of Siberian Husky and Malamute.   Their color and markings vary, many with the opaque blue eyes of a Malamute.  A litter of four puppies are sleeping in their house.  The names of each new litter are taken from a new theme each year.  This litter have celebration names for the 100 years NPS .  We are given a demo of the team in action pulling a cart with wheels.  We are always impressed with the intelligence of these hard working dogs.  Bus back to the Visitor’s Center to see the exhibits and watch the movie.  A walk over to the Murie Science Center for interactive computer activities, a wolf skeleton, dinosaur finds and to view the beautiful Denali handmade quilt, three quarter inch blocks depicting the satellite view from space of this huge park.  It’s larger than a King size.  Bus back to the RV.  Dinner: cheeseburgers, brats, tater tots, veg and dip, blueberry cheesecake. Walk down the road to the Ranger Program on wolves.  Ranger is from Erie, Pa and is the   same one as at the dog demo.  He is an excellent speaker and gives a nice program.  It’s spitting rain and the wind is colder as we walk back to the RV.  We decide to have a showdown game of rummy.  We have to stop since it’s getting late but Minde is in the lead.  As we play a couple from California walk by.  They have brought their Pomeranian dogs with them in the campground.  But as we looked closer they were also walking  Siamese cat on a leash.  We’re in the wilderness without TV, this is better than TV.   Going back the Wilderness road tomorrow and it is a big day. Time for rest.   We have no cell phone or Internet connection up here.  It’s hard to let go of it but we are finding  peace, light conversation and enjoying each other and the silence.!  Night

August 6

Awoke to low gray clouds and some spitting rain. The whole Prince William Sound to the interior is under this huge storm front.  While we slept in still silence there were still vehicles passing through the night.  It is summer and it is the weekend and we are just down the road from a roadhouse  so maybe that explains all the activity.  After breakfast we set off down the road.   We are thinking this road isn’t so bad….  Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.  To call this road a bone shaker would be an understatement.  Washboard, potholes, loose gravel and mud puddles besides narrow road with soft gravel shoulders.  Add in steep climbs and sharp curves and fast moving locals who don’t seem to care if they break an axle or crack our windshield.  We are mostly in high tundra above tree line.    This is wilderness.  There is beautiful scenery all around but for the low dark clouds it’s hard to see.  We are talking about returning someday when we have a good weather report and take a few days to make this 135 miles trip.  We are in and out of rain.  We see a bald eagle, Ptarmigan, Swans and ducks but the big game eludes us.  Even though there is moose sign everywhere and caribou have been reported.  We climb to the second highest summit in Alaska, MacLaren Summit at over 4,000 feet.  We are so high that we are enveloped by low hanging cloud, a shroud of fog.  On the way down the beautiful valley opens up, rich with ponds, creeks, wetlands, beaver lodges and dams.  We stop at the MacLaren Lodge located beside the fast moving MacLaren River and Bridge.  We can see the mighty MacLaren Glacier in the distance.  The lodge is log cabin and serves food and has rooms for rent.  It’s a dog musher hangout in the winter. Pat buys some native items at a very good price and good quality.  On up the road we stop at what is referred to as Alaskans’ favorite view point.  It’s a highpoint overlooking the extensive valley of the West Fork Glacier and the Susitna Glacier.  Even though we are far away they are massive.  We passed over the Susitna River earlier, it is a huge volume river that is very high right now.  It flows over 600 miles into Cook Inlet just north of Anchorage.  The sun is trying to come out but the dark clouds hurry to shut it out.  We rise to another lesser summit and the Alaska Range of mountains rise up before us.  They are spectacular in their harsh steep sides with colors caused by various minerals and rock showing.  We drop down beside the Nenana River.  It is very high and the road runs just a few feet from its banks.  It’s obvious that the river floods this area and luckily they have added a stone levee or it might have been flooded today.  Minde  is a trooper and hung in as long as she could.  After a while the 20mph bumpy driving put her to sleep.  She missed a little scenery but did not miss the animals we wanted to see.  We drive through the small town of Cantwell and we merge onto the Parks Highway.  Ah paved highway we don’t care about a little frost heave anymore.  We are only 25 miles from Denali NP and nearer to Denali the mountain.  Our first stop is the Riley Creek Mercantile to dump and fill with fresh water since we will be parked in a remote location for the next two days.  We take showers there and wash some clothes.  Off to the campground up the road.  We are located at the end of the paved road.  Everything from here on is controlled driving with special buses into the wilderness.  This is the same campground where the bear was shot so things should be safer now. We find our camp spot.  It’s surrounded by spruce trees and has a fire pit and table.  We have a dinner of Chavetta’s chicken, herbed rice, corn, garlic bread and s’more’s around the campfire.  Minde makes the first round and they are good!  The wind whips through in gusts and shakes the RV; it’s cool here but not cold.  The wind makes it seem so.  Pat and Chuck’s bed in a box is not comfortable.  So, Chuck folds down the comfy couch bed and settles in.  We have a day of activities in the main visitor area tomorrow.   In a couple weeks it is the NPS 100^th anniversary, a very special time to be here.  The day after we have reservations to take the bus down the wilderness road.  There was a landslide of old volcanic ash on the road so we are limited by how far we can go back.  That’s fine, the distance we can still travel is a long enough day and covers most of the highlights.  Minde reminded us that she arrived one week ago today.  Can’t believe how fast the time is flying and doing a lot of fun things.  More adventure tomorrow!  Night.

August 5

Awoke to steady rain and a shroud of fog that blankets the mountains and the harbor.  It’s not cold, just damp and clammy.  Time to go!  Hot showers, breakfast, quick stop at the grocery and we head out of town.   Time to leave the various town characters:  Bunny Guy, Strange Gift Shop Guy, and Rock and Roll Guy.  The rain coming down off the mountains and the glacier melt has made flooding in the lowland with streams running out of their beds.  It’s a fast and furious current.  The water is running beside the road at our level.  If it wasn’t for the levees they have constructed to divert the flow the road would be flooded.  But we start to climb up to Thompson Pass, one of the beauty spots in the state.  First we pass through narrow Keystone Canyon with many waterfalls, particularly Bridal Falls.  At 2500 plus feet with our ears popping we are in dense fog and it obscures our views.  We drive down out of the pass and come to Worthington Glacier.  A very impressive high mountain glacier that is very close to us. We get a quick pic, it is still raining steadily.  We flatten out on our drive passing the Ak Pipeline along the way.  We stop at Tonsina Lodge for a lark.  Truth is stranger than fiction in Alaska.  It’s an old log cabin roadhouse with a bar and dining/entertainment hall.  We are greeted by women of Russian birth who explain their Russian sauna, complete with birch branches for self-flagellation to stimulate circulation.  Then she reviews the Russian items on the menu.  We are also greeted by two ‘in charge’ tea cup terriers who run the place.  We get coffee to go and a few pics. On down the road we stop at Willow Lake to eat our RV lunch.  The clouds lay heavy and low over the mountains.  It’s a shame because the three volcanoes would have been in clear view.  Mt Wrangell still blows off steam from time to time and is the northernmost active volcano in the Pacific Ring of Fire.  We take a brief diversion to the historic mining town of Copper Center.  We visit the museum and speak with a young girl whose great grandparents settled the area.  Next we stop at the Copper Center Princess Lodge, of the Princess Cruise Line operation.  The Lodge is beautiful and we get some bargains at the gift shop.  We see an eagle fly over being chased by ravens.  The Lodge sits high above the Kluchina River, famous for huge King salmon and currently part of the famous Copper River salmon run.  It empties just below us into the Copper River.  On up the road we stop off at the Wrangell-St. Elias NPS visitors center.  It is the Centennial for the NPS so there are celebrations going on.  It’s a beautiful collection of rustic LEED certified buildings full of displays and a great 20 minute film of one of the most remote parks.  Less than a hundred miles of road into the park that is the size of New Hampshire and Vermont put together.  Next we stop in Glenellen for gas.  Pat and Minde run over to the visitor’s center and meet a couple locals.  Pat accepts a used dog bootie memento from the Iditarod Dog Race and a baggie of dried moose droppings for good luck.  Only in Alaska!  If we turn west we would eventually end up in Anchorage, but we head further north toward Fairbanks (not our destination).  There are very few people living up here and not many cars.  They have improved the highway in some parts but much is still frost heaved and uneven.  The clouds grow heavy again and we are in rain.  It’s too bad because the views would be great.  We are still paralleling the Ak Pipeline at this point.  We finally come to the town of Paxson, looking more like a ghost town.  We turn onto the Denali Highway which has been on our bucket list.  The road is closed in winter and is not paved but the views are supposed to be spectacular.  We continue to climb to various summits entering the alpine tundra, leaving the spruce trees behind.  We have to imagine the views because the clouds are low and heavy not showing us much.  The campground that we wanted to stay at is full.  Can’t believe how many people are in it.  But other campers are pulled over on the pull outs on the side of the road so we do the same.  Off in the near distance we can hear a creek and can just make out a beaver lodge.  This is supposed to be remote Alaska but we have vehicles driving by about every 15 minutes to this point of 11:30PM.  We are kind of alone in this spot and other than the cars we have dead silence.  Up and down the road about a quarter mile there are other campers who have done the same thing as us.  So, we’re not entirely alone.  We are self contained so we have our basic needs.  After a dinner of Barbeque ribs, tater tots, salad and blueberry cheesecake we play rummy.  Minde has to remind us how to play.  Aunt Pat has to catch up!  We take a brief walk around the pull out area, Pat sees sign that moose have been eating the bushes.  Minde is becoming expert at identifying their droppings, we have some and they are fresh!  Now if we could just see the actual animal.  Driving the rest of the Denali Highway tomorrow to Denali NP for 3 nights.  Hope the clouds lift and we can see what everyone says about this little traveled highway.  It seems we’ll have to return to see it in full glory.  A caribou herd migrates through here in September, now that would be something to see.  It’s fun to have Minde with us, she is giving us extra energy!   It looks like we will have darkness tonight for sleep given the dark storm skies.  Time for bed.  Night!

August 4

Awoke in the Bear Paws II campground on the harbor in thick gray fog and rain.  The temperature is low 60’s.  We all take long hot showers in the shower house next door.  After breakfast we set off walking the town. We stop at 3 different museums, two on Valdez history including gold mining and the 1964 earthquake and the collection of crude oil at the pipeline terminal across the harbor. We also stop at the Prince William Sound Community College and speak with one of the students about the class offerings and programs there.  Then we visit the private collection museum that is part of their tiny campus.  The Maxine and Jesse Whitney Museum is a private collection from their early travels and business dealings around the state.  The taxidermy animals are some of the best we have seen and the various native crafts done in all kinds of natural materials are extensive and beautifully done. We visit a couple gift shops and the new Valdez Visitors Center.  The Center is nice but we know most of what we need already.  The rain has periods of drizzle and harder rain. We walk back to the RV and eat lunch.  Then we set off again for a hike around the salt marsh estuary.  It is the only one in all of Prince William Sound.  We see ducks and a couple salmon near the surface.  We walk over to the large fish processing plant.  There are workers from all over the world, many languages being spoken, who have come to work the high fish season.  We find the Peter Pan sales shop where we can buy fresh and flash frozen fish, crabs and clams.  We bring back a couple containers of fish rub and some cans of their smoked salmon.  We stop off at a couple more shops and arrive just in time to see a family come off a fishing boat with Rock Fish and Halibut.  The largest Halibut is about 95 pounds and nearly five feet long.  The woman who caught it is smaller than the fish.  We work our way along the boardwalk where more bunnies are grazing.  Minde tries to feed them carrots and they snub us.  According to yet another local character, the eagles eat a lot of them and it helps to keep the population down.   Take a rest at the RV and try to dry out some.  Have to turn on the heat to deal with the damp.  We have set up a tarp tent and it has been helpful to drop wet gear under it so we don’t have to take it into the RV.  After a bit we go to a restaurant favored by the  locals, the Alaska Halibut House.  It has been run by the same family for many years.  Chuck and Pat get the halibut basket and fries and Minde gets the cheeseburger and fries.  It’s all good.  We have a brief reprieve from the rain as we walk back.  An eagle flies over us with a fish clenched in his claws and then another one perches on a TV antenna for pictures.  So Minde gets to see her eagles!  The fog is so low and thick it blanks out the mountains all around us and covers the harbor.  The rain continues to come.  We’re just glad it’s not snow.  They get record snows of 300 inches a winter.  We have had a good day and did a lot of stuff.  We figure at least 3 or more miles of walking.

Spoke with Brenna today and Dean’s appointment went well.  He had to have three different injections and oral polio.  He met all his milestones and smiled a lot at Doctor Ryan who said he is a very strong baby, which we knew.  He said it’s time to put him in his crib as he is outgrowing the smaller baby bed.  The next crib is the Simons family crib.  Doc says it’s okay to let him cry to sleep for a little while.  Problem is Grandma has a hard time with it!  He is 12 pounds 8 ounces and 23 ½ inches long!  On target for his growth projections.  Baby Dean might be having a tough 24 hours after the shots and dealing with all the vaccinations.  We are thinking of him and hoping he does well.  For Mom and Dad too, with some sleep!

It’s been another day of adventure.  We’re heading north through Thompson Pass tomorrow and on up the Richardson Highway.  We will be ready to move on.  When Valdez is clear it is incredible, but relentless rain, not so much.  Hope to see even more wildlife.  Minde is keeping up just fine, it’s the old people who are feeling aches and pains!  Quiet evening in the RV.  Minde journaling and coloring, Pat and Chuck blogging and downloading pictures. Night.

August 3

Awoke to sunlight streaming in the windows.  Sleep was a little off as we get used to these beds.  Minde is sleeping in a double bed over the cab.  She has to be a little careful not to sit upright quickly, not much room between the bed and the ceiling.  She gets into the bed using a ladder.  Pat and Chuck in a ‘queen’ bed which sits about 3 and a half feet off the floor requiring a boost to climb in. Can’t be a real queen it’s too cozy.  Minde and Pat walk up through the little village to the wedding site.  It’s still a very lovely setting with the sunlight streaming in.  They have built a substantial gazebo for the couple to stand in.  The walk through the woods is still scenic and pleasant.  Down the road back into Girdwood we stop at the Voted #1 Laundromat in the country, a favorite of Uncle Brian.  Minde pays homage and gets her pic taken.  Down the road to Portage Valley.  We stop and take pictures along the way.  The Explorer Glacier Lake is still so we are able to get a perfect reflection of the glacier and the mountains in the water.  Stop at Portage Visitors Center where Minde gets another NPS stamp.  There is one small iceberg in the lake that has come off the glacier.  They are repaving the road and as it is the only way in and out and narrow we are backed up in line waiting.  Getting nerve racking since the tunnel is open any minute and we have to get through during this one particular time in order to catch the ferry.  It’s a nail biter. Drive on to the Anderson Tunnel.  Vehicles share the tunnel with the Alaska RR so the times are rigid entering and leaving.  They charge a fee.  We drive through the 2 mile tunnel trying not to think about the tons of rock sitting above us.  We come out on the other side to Whittier and it is a rare sight with sunny skies.  There are many spectacular waterfalls plunging from the steep rise of the mountains.  Wedding guests came this way for a day’s tour out to the glaciers.  Our weather wasn’t this good.  We board the Alaska ferry. Minde was amazed by the number and size of vehicles boarding the boat.  This is one of the smaller ferries and we must drive down a platform into the bottom of the boat and park.  We are packed in like sardines and can barely get in and out of the RV. We have to leave the RV and walk up into the passenger area.  There is a movie room, comfy chairs room, a canteen, and solariums on two floors. We spend our entire time on the second floor solarium that allows us to walk around outside. We packed our lunch/snacks and ate on the boat.  The views of the mountains and huge glaciers are very beautiful.  The mountains have greened over the summer with spruce and undergrowth, looks like green velvet.  Besides the glaciers there are still spots of deep snow high up that cause crashing, long drop waterfalls.  Lots of fishing boats were out in the Canal.  The trip was supposed to be 9 hours but it was shortened because we didn’t have to stop at Tititlek. We have bright sun most of the way and then enter two banks of heavy shrouded fog.  It’s like floating in mid air.  No sign of land and barely able to see the water and everything gets very quiet.  Each time we come out into the clear.  We pass by some of the tidal glaciers, ones that still reach to the ocean.  The grand-daddy is Columbia which we can see in the distance up its fjord.  There are icebergs floating down and fishing boats bobbing around them.  There is a bright aquamarine iceberg that dwarfs one of the boats.  As we enter the passage to Valdez the clouds are high but heavy.  We are lucky to see it this well given the webcam yesterday showing thick fog.  First sight is the Alaska Pipeline terminal.  We can see the last leg of pipe coming out of the mountains down to the tanks.  This is mile zero of the line, it crosses the whole length of the state from the North Sea in the Arctic Ocean.  Our sailing has been a dream, sometimes barely a ripple on the water the whole way.  There are large fishing fleets in the area, amazing to think of the thousands of salmon they are catching.  It appears they are red salmon, favored by many for their versatility and flavor. Our animal list:  pair of Orcas, Humpback whale, sea otter, stellar seals, puffins, terns, eagle.  Not bad given the massive areas of water surrounding us.  We return to the RV, upon docking we drive to the campground about a half mile away.  There are loose bunnies everywhere .  Someone opened the cage and they have taken over.  Can’t believe the eagles haven’t eaten them.  They are very wary of people and won’t let us approach them.  The sports fisherman are cleaning their catch at the harbor, red salmon, and not an eagle in sight which is unusual.  We stop off at the Totem Inn, a long time establishment. It has been renovated and not quite as funky in design but the taxidermy and ivory displays are still excellent.  There is a moose head over the fireplace and he is magnificent.  It has to have been a world class catch he is so massive.  Our campsite is on the harbor across from the fish processing plant (no smells) with views across the harbor looking at the Pipeline terminal.  The Exxon Valdez loaded with crude oil from the pipeline hit a reef just outside this harbor in the 80’s.  Thousands of birds and sealife were affected.   It was purely pilot error and brought attention to the cheaper construction of single hull tankers.  Like a full balloon, a light tap from a sharp object and it all spills out.  An oil spill in cold water acts differently from warmer waters. There was much cleanup that had to be done for years.  Today, there is no obvious sign, but if you are on the beaches, turning over a rock might still show crude.  We have nice hot showers/restrooms a short walk away.  Settle in for an early night.  Happy 8 weeks Baby Dean.  Night.

August 2

Awoke to light rain and overcast skies.  Drive to the Great Alaskan Adventure RV business to pick up the RV.  We three watch the orientation video and finish the paperwork.  We are getting a 25 foot new Minnie Winnie but there is an issue with one of the drawers, it appears to be broken.  Minde and Pat return to the apartment while Chuck stays to get it fixed.  We’re not crazy about the new design but we’ll make it work.  We have to clear everything out of the apartment for the next renters. After several trips up and down the stairs we have the RV packed.  Luckily we have an eighteen year old with energy and young joints who can help.  We stop off at Brenna’s to drop off the car.  We get to visit with Dean one last time before we go.  He is in a good mood and insists on pulling himself forward from a semi-reclining position.  He’s pretty proud of himself with a big grin and a little gurgle.  It’s hard to leave him for the next eight days. He is 8 weeks old tomorrow.  He is changing fast. 

We three set off the road down Turnagain Arm.  We stop for views along the way and also see where the fire burned up the mountain.  We turn into Girdwood Valley and drive directly back to the Alyeska Ski Resort.  We hop on the tram and rise to 3900 feet above the valley floor for views of the valley and its glaciers and the vista of Turnagain Arm.  Turnagain Arm is in negative tide, someone has let the water out of the tub.  It lays open bare swaths of tidal mud where the water has drained.  From the mountain view and with the sun, it looks like some kind of strange mosaic puzzle, spectacular.  We visit the round house gift shop and stop to see what the fancy Seven Glaciers Restaurant is like.  It’s very beautiful and fancy but we have more to do.  Down the tram and onto the Double Musky Inn, a longtime local favorite as well as a must do for distant travelers.  It’s a Cajun theme. Minde has linguini with garlic sauce and shrimp (fresh Alaska Shrimp), Chuck has large pepper steak and Pat has fresh caught Copper River Salmon.  We each get a softball sized homemade jalapeno roll.  Minde gets famous Double Musky pie and Chuck gets Chocolate pudding cake for dessert.  Pat has a Musky Mule.  The restaurant is very eclectically decorated, old Alaska bar meets Cajun.  We eat in the solarium surrounded by stained glass and glass décor.  As we finish the sky clears and we have sunshine.  Up the dirt road to Crow Creek Mine.  Brenna and Zach were married on this site and it is just as beautiful as we remember it.  A conservation village, tiny old gold mining town where people can pay to pan gold.  We have beautiful views of the mountains and glaciers.  And we have bugs.  We have to get out the bug nets and put them over our heads.  They are really annoying.  There is only one other camper near-by and by the time we settle in there is dead silence.  We are high up in the valley off the beaten track.  The only thing we hear is a jet high in the sky overhead.  We arrived safe and sound after a very busy and eventful day.  Night!

August 1

Really?  It’s August 1 already!  Awoke to cool temps and light steady rain.  Minde slept in this morning, more adjustment.  We take our time and drive past the kids’ elementary school and our house to show her.  Then we go over to Brenna’s and Dean is having a nap.  Bren, Minde and Chuck put on hiking and rain gear and set out to climb Flat Top Mountain here in Anchorage. The most popular climb in the area at about 3500 feet.  Pat packed a lunch for them to eat at the top.  Minde is using her new back pack with camel water pack she got from Seth for her graduation.  Pat is babysitter today.  They got about 500 feet from the top but the wind and rain made the climb very difficult and somewhat dangerous.  So they pulled out their flag to mark the end of the climb!  As they left the parking lot Minde spotted a moose and baby.  We’ve been here for 3 weeks and traveled all over and have seen none.  She sees one in just less than 48 hours after her arrival!  Back at Brenn’s we order Moose’s Tooth Pizza for dinner with fresh garden salad.  Minde is very good with the baby, Dean likes it when she feeds him and smiles at him.  Back at the apartment we start to pack up for the start of our RV trip tomorrow.  Our landlord has new tenants coming in but we have lots of time to vacate.  We will be returning to this apartment for the remainder of our stay.  Minde will spend four more nights with us in Anchorage before she flies home. We just heard on the news there has been a huge mudslide over the wilderness road going back into Denali National park.  The same route we will be taking while we are camped there.  There has been record rainfall and the slide was a combination of very old volcanic ash that let loose.  No one was killed and they were able to clear the road enough to rescue the stranded buses.  We have decided we will only take the road to a point well before the slide even if they offer access.  It still looks very unstable to us.  Minde is very tired and into bed quickly.  Big day tomorrow starting Day 1 of the RV trip.  Night!

July 31

Minde got in last night around midnight.  We have darkness at that time now so she couldn’t see much.  This was a very demanding trip for a first time flight and she did very well.  She is becoming savvy about how to make the best of opportunities, like claiming better seats.  Her luggage arrived in one piece.  A quick sandwich and to bed!  It was 5AM her time at home by the time we slept.

Minde woke at 7:30A, couldn’t sleep anymore, given the time difference.  So we took advantage and set off for downtown Anchorage.  We visited the outdoor craft market first and then headed down to Ship Creek.  On the way we visited the Alaska RR depot for the gift shop and a stamp for Minde’s Ak passport book.  We walked to Ship Creek where Chuck has been fishing and the silvers are in.  We watch a fellow prepare his silver, it’s a pretty good size and just barely pink turned.  Then we visit the ulu factory where we learn about this ancient tool.  They have been used for well over 1000 years by the natives.  The factory offers a free trolley shuttle back up the hill so off we go.  Stopping off at the Anchorage Visitors Bureau log cabin for a stamp.  And they allow each person to write a postcard and mail it for free – Minde sends some off.  We stop off at the tourist shops and Minde finds bargains galore.  No sales tax in Anchorage.  Brenna and Dean meet us and we walk to lunch at F Street, Dean’s #6 lunch out.  We walk next door to the federal lands management building. We have to go through security with x-ray etc.  Dean’s first security checkpoint (he is not put through x-ray) We pick up Minde’s National Park stamp book and she gets her first stamp.  Now she is stamping 2 books.  There is an excellent display of Alaska animals including birds, info about the land and native cultures.  Dean can’t take his eyes off the animals, he is really enjoying this.  The ranger gives us yet another talk on how to avoid contact with bears.  He’s not  particularly supportive about the use of bacon….  Back to Brenna and Zach’s for a delicious dinner.  It’s time for sleep we are all fading fast, busy day and Minde’s still jet lagged.  Plans tomorrow for Brenna, Minde and Chuck to hike up Flat Top Mountain.  Minde has been a busy girl since she got here.  Cousin Chris did warn her about our busy schedules.  Night baby Dean, you were such a trooper today.  Glad we could share this special family day.

July 29

Awoke to heavy clouded skies, mild temps, no rain.  Spent the morning completing travel plans when Minde comes and making lists.  The apartment is small but we think we have it arranged so Minde is comfortable.  We will not be spending a lot of time here, just enough for showers, sleep and breakfast.  We spend the day at various stores that have the items we need.  Trying to gather food items enough for RV travel times when there are no stores and enough to allow not taking valuable fun time shopping!  We promise Minde will be fed regularly and given heathy options.  LOL.  In Alaska grocery lists include a canister of bear spray!  We drop off all our buys and head out to O’Malley’s on the Green, the city golf course/restaurant.  It sits half way up the mountain.  A course built while we were living in Anchorage, much more sophisticated now.  Bears and moose still wonder onto the course from time to time.  Not tonight.    Tonight is Burger, Brew and a Bucket of Balls for $15.00!  It is well attended by couples, groups of friends and families.  The driving range is fun they provide the clubs if you want.  The Chugach Mountains form the back drop of the range.  The burgers are cooked fresh on a grill and tonight Alaska brewing is featured.  We meet one of their reps who graduated from St John Fisher’s in Rochester, near where both our kids graduated from. He is from the Buffalo area.  They are serving Alaska White which is well established.  The other three beers are known as ‘rough drafts’, limited offerings of potential brews to be offered more broadly if well received.  There is one made with spruce fronds and cranberries.  Pat chooses Assaca, IPA and Chuck gets the White.  Stop off at the club restaurant and have an app and split a small dinner.  The view from one window is Anchorage cityscape, but it is socked in.  If it wasn’t heavily clouded we could see Susitna, Alaska Range, Denali and adjacent mountains.  The backdrop for the band is a view of the rising Chugach Mountains above.  The large windows have crossbars, likely for the winds that come through the area but may help in earthquake as well.  The band plays jazz and eclectic modern.  It’s five piece, horn, sax/clarinet, drums, 2 electric guitars.  The band’s leader sits at our table to talk.  Turns out he was raised in Alliance, Ohio about 45 minutes from us.  He attended Akron U and Cle State Uni.  Family is still in Ohio. He is itinerant music teacher in the Anchorage District, mostly as band instructor.  We share the changes and the now austerity being pushed on the District.  Two of his students have come tonight to jam in the ‘gig’ so it’s fun to watch the young men play.  Our waitress is a local hillside girl who knows our friends the Isley’s.  Anchorage is all about 3 degrees of separation!  Wonderful evening.  We have been able to watch the putters struggle below our window while listening to great music and views!  Minde will arrive very late tomorrow night.  I think we’ll all be sleeping in on Sunday.  Missing Dean as he is fishing in Seward. Let’s hope he and they catch some good fish!!!!

Night baby Dean, sleep tight in your cabin in the woods.